Vanuatu Walkabout

Walkabout routes in Vanuatu

Rinkelbum taking on supplies in Peterson Bay

On the airstrip US Force One

US Army bridge Peterson Bay

The blue hole up the Matava River

Heather and Yadranka enjoy blue hole swimming

Aeolus on anchor in Ansanvari Bay

The Chief Mr Nelson and Yadranka at Ansanvari Yacht Club

Kupere in sunset at Ansanvari Bay

Peterson Bay, Espiritu Santo, is truly a magical place. The magic has partly been high jacked by the “Oyster Bay Resort” which dominates the view of the bay. It was here James Michener got inspiration for his book “Tales of the South Pacific”, which later was turned into the famous musical “South Pacific”. The entrance to the bay is narrow and shallow, and with our draft of six feet can only be negotiated at high tide. This, however, does not prevent yachts to shelter here and enjoy a few beers at the Oyster Bay Resort and paddle up the river to the blue hole. Peterson Bay was also the site for the WWII airbase Force One and remains of the airstrip and ruins are easily found. The US forces also build the road around the island including several military style bridges still in use.  We joined Mark and Anthony from the Canadian ketch “Rinkelbum” and Henrik and Win from NZ in the resort bar where we sang “Bali High my island...” and “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair”. Henrik comes from a farmer family north of Aarhus, Denmark, and for years ago left his homeland for a successful life in NZ as a farmer. It turned out that he knew very well Soerensen from Rolsoe Gaard where I spend time in the early sixties – the world is small!

After checking out the airbase and the blue hole, which was the water supply for up to 100,000 US servicemen that stayed at the base, we looked in vain for any memorial. Nothing was to be found that indicated the history and importance of this place for the outcome of the war and in stopping the Japanese forces from invading Australia – a bit sad I think! Ironically, the base is now owned by a Japanese company that use the land for cattle destined for the Tokyo market.

Here Heather left Aeolus (without cleaning the bilge!) and we wandered eastward to Ambae and Maewo Islands to reach Ansanvari Bay on the south tip. The bad overcast and rainy weather that has followed us around left us here and we enjoyed Mr Nelson’s hospitality at Ansanvari Yacht Club for a few days with the NZ yacht “Kupere” with Shaun and Margo on board plus the daughter’s family of four!  After two days we sailed south as the southern winds died down. Rain and clouds followed us along the Pentecost coast and in rough seas we tried to find an anchorage on the northern tip of Ambryn. We had to turn around just inside a shallow bay listed as the “best” anchorage on Ambryn. As we got out we spotted a strange looking motor trimeran battling the waves on an eastward course.  It turned out to be Sea Shepard’s vessel “Birgit Bardot” chasing illegal tuna fishermen!

 We went west and a couple of miles down the road we spotted two yachts (Pauline & Tom on Arcisia and the NZ boat Coyote) for anchor. We just managed to get in behind the reef before sunset – nice place! During the night we could see the light from the top of the active volcano on the island, but the next day everything was covered in clouds and rain. From here we motored along with two miserable stops before reaching Port Vila. We caught a few mackerels, but lost four lures, which were just snapped off. There are some monsters out there and clearly our gear needs to be updated with shock absorbers and stronger line. We also lost our Nikon camera – the autofocus died, a victim of the hard life at sea!

Doing It Tough in Vanuatu

Heathers arrival signalled our departure from Port Vila heading north. We found temporary shelter in Havannah Harbor on the NW coast of Efate. This magnificent natural harbor was the site where the US navy assemblaged before the battle of the Coral Sea in WW II. We headed north via Emae Island and Revoliu Bay and Lamen Bay on the Island of Epi. At most anchorages there were villages along the shore were children played among the beached dugout canoes. Lamen Bay was a bit of a hide out among the charter game fishers because of the “Paradise Sunset Resort”, a couple of weatherboard shacks where warm beer can be enjoyed in the setting sun.  The villagers were friendly speaking a mix of English and French.

We continued north to Epi Island anchoring in Banam Bay and heading to Narsup for a few provisions. Narsup was a poor anchorage with little shelter for the easterlies and hardly any provisions in the local shop - except for beer! We retreated to Vao Island, which is supposed to be the site for wood carving. After settling on a marginal anchorage we went ashore to meet the villagers, but was asked to cough up with 2500 Vatu (about $27) if we wish to take any photographs! However, there was not much to photograph and after a short visit to the school we rowed back to Aeolus in pouring rain and hard wind.

We had a fantastic crossing to Espiritu Santo in 15 to 20 knots SE wind keeping Aeolus on 7 knots with a reduced genoa and a trysail on the mast. We did not catch any fish since we left Port Vila, but have lost 3 lures with steel wire leads! The fish took the lure so hard that it was nearly impossible to drag it in and in no time the wire was chewed off. There are some monsters out there!

In rough seas we entered the harbor of Luganville with little shelter from the easterlies. With great effort we rowed the dinghy ashore (the outboard died for a while ago!) and went shopping for lures and food. Not many veggies in the market, but plenty of excellent meat and a good bakery. Returning the dinghy was an effort that had to be done in two steps.

After one night in rolly waves and strong winds the forecast of 20 to 30 knots wind made us retreat to the Aore Island Resort across the narrow sound and hooked up to one of their $15 a night moorings. The scene was set for a relaxing couple of days when nature took revenge!

After a nice evening meal in the resort restaurant we returned to Aeolus in darkness but with light from the resort. Aeolus was moored just one hundred meters from the dock. I was rowing (as usual!) with the ladies on each of the dinghy tubes. Suddenly we were hit on the starboard side with a huge force and a soaking splash of water nearly tilting the dinghy. Heather jumped for cover and with the two girls hanging on to the port tube we saw the starboard one deflate in seconds. During the flash of a second when we were hit and drenched in water I saw a black tail of something resembling a large shark. Under great stress I managed to row the dinghy back to the dock with the two girls hanging on to one tube holding up the deflated site to prevent the water from coming in. We got back to safety and just to face a 15 cm large hole in the dinghy tube! There were no volunteers for a swim back to Aeolus so the resort people generously ferried us and the dinghy back.