Waiting in Villa

Port Vila Panorama

I am writing to you from our favourite water hole “The Waterfront Café” where we are enjoying a couple of Tasker beers on tap and an occasional Kava-colada, which makes your gums numb and your walks uncertain. In the Waterfront Café there is no shortage of cruisers and tales from the seven seas. There is also no shortage of yachts on anchor and in the inner bay the moorings are full with new arrivals and a few “wrecks” hanging on with a rotten rig and half eaten mooring robes. It is not for nothing that the locals refer to the inner bay as “the bowling alley”!

A Cruise Liner arrives in Port Vila

Veggi market in Port Vila

Harry and Yadranka at the Waterfront Cafe

Port Vila is a busy place with rattling busses and taxis racing back and forth spewing exhausts making breathing difficult. The outdoor tourist shops are full of people trying to sell you colourful garments and the crowded veggie market is a 24 hour business. In the local supermarket “Au Bon Marche” you get a touch of the French influence with excellent cuts of meat, cheeses and pate’s. There is no shortage of good wines and the language spoken is a truly mix up. The hustle and tassel gets even more exciting with the arrival of huge cruise ships with thousands of tourists. An arrival is usually announced on channel 16 early in the morning when the captain is calling “harbour control” a million times before somebody is awake enough to answer the call. In Port Vila there is not much space for these modern giants and interisland traders and visiting vessels are pushed out on the anchorage. At night the flashing light of the large TV screen on the upper deck shines through the coconut groves in harmony with the only other major light sources from the tall casino and the Reserve Bank of Vanuatu! People here do not pay income tax felt by cruisers when visiting the customs in the shade of the moored cruise liner. An otherwise inconspicuous building carries the sign “Customs & Revenue” with the word “revenue” highlighted!

Yadranka enjoying a Tasker on tap

Aeolus has spent a couple of months on a mooring in the far end of the bowling alley. We used the time to do varnish work and other maintenance. The genoa is a rag, but this has to wait. Otherwise Aeolus is in good shape. We have met a lot of “new” cruising friends and many “old” from Mexico, Marquesas and Tahiti. The mix of nationalities is pronounced and many come from Europe after crossing the Atlantic and the Pacific. We met Jan and Joanna on their boat “Joanna”. Jan is an expat Dane living most of his adult life in NZ. Joanna born in South Africa, but is now a Kivi with a keen interest in Mollusca taxonomy. Their cabin is full of mollusc identification literature and stacks of shells neatly sorted and packed in sealed plastic bags, an impressive collection! The couple has sailed around the world for eight years and are now on their last leg back to NZ! We are on the last leg (of the first section!) back to Australia via the P2P rally, a two week passage. In the horizon of the setting sun the customs and quarantine are waiting with their pockets wide open. A large welcome committee of sniffer dogs, yacht evaluators and termite inspectors are lining the dock. Maybe New Zealand or Antarctica is a better option?

Joanna and Jan

Vanuatu Walkabout

Walkabout routes in Vanuatu

Rinkelbum taking on supplies in Peterson Bay

On the airstrip US Force One

US Army bridge Peterson Bay

The blue hole up the Matava River

Heather and Yadranka enjoy blue hole swimming

Aeolus on anchor in Ansanvari Bay

The Chief Mr Nelson and Yadranka at Ansanvari Yacht Club

Kupere in sunset at Ansanvari Bay

Peterson Bay, Espiritu Santo, is truly a magical place. The magic has partly been high jacked by the “Oyster Bay Resort” which dominates the view of the bay. It was here James Michener got inspiration for his book “Tales of the South Pacific”, which later was turned into the famous musical “South Pacific”. The entrance to the bay is narrow and shallow, and with our draft of six feet can only be negotiated at high tide. This, however, does not prevent yachts to shelter here and enjoy a few beers at the Oyster Bay Resort and paddle up the river to the blue hole. Peterson Bay was also the site for the WWII airbase Force One and remains of the airstrip and ruins are easily found. The US forces also build the road around the island including several military style bridges still in use.  We joined Mark and Anthony from the Canadian ketch “Rinkelbum” and Henrik and Win from NZ in the resort bar where we sang “Bali High my island...” and “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair”. Henrik comes from a farmer family north of Aarhus, Denmark, and for years ago left his homeland for a successful life in NZ as a farmer. It turned out that he knew very well Soerensen from Rolsoe Gaard where I spend time in the early sixties – the world is small!

After checking out the airbase and the blue hole, which was the water supply for up to 100,000 US servicemen that stayed at the base, we looked in vain for any memorial. Nothing was to be found that indicated the history and importance of this place for the outcome of the war and in stopping the Japanese forces from invading Australia – a bit sad I think! Ironically, the base is now owned by a Japanese company that use the land for cattle destined for the Tokyo market.

Here Heather left Aeolus (without cleaning the bilge!) and we wandered eastward to Ambae and Maewo Islands to reach Ansanvari Bay on the south tip. The bad overcast and rainy weather that has followed us around left us here and we enjoyed Mr Nelson’s hospitality at Ansanvari Yacht Club for a few days with the NZ yacht “Kupere” with Shaun and Margo on board plus the daughter’s family of four!  After two days we sailed south as the southern winds died down. Rain and clouds followed us along the Pentecost coast and in rough seas we tried to find an anchorage on the northern tip of Ambryn. We had to turn around just inside a shallow bay listed as the “best” anchorage on Ambryn. As we got out we spotted a strange looking motor trimeran battling the waves on an eastward course.  It turned out to be Sea Shepard’s vessel “Birgit Bardot” chasing illegal tuna fishermen!

 We went west and a couple of miles down the road we spotted two yachts (Pauline & Tom on Arcisia and the NZ boat Coyote) for anchor. We just managed to get in behind the reef before sunset – nice place! During the night we could see the light from the top of the active volcano on the island, but the next day everything was covered in clouds and rain. From here we motored along with two miserable stops before reaching Port Vila. We caught a few mackerels, but lost four lures, which were just snapped off. There are some monsters out there and clearly our gear needs to be updated with shock absorbers and stronger line. We also lost our Nikon camera – the autofocus died, a victim of the hard life at sea!

Doing It Tough in Vanuatu

Heathers arrival signalled our departure from Port Vila heading north. We found temporary shelter in Havannah Harbor on the NW coast of Efate. This magnificent natural harbor was the site where the US navy assemblaged before the battle of the Coral Sea in WW II. We headed north via Emae Island and Revoliu Bay and Lamen Bay on the Island of Epi. At most anchorages there were villages along the shore were children played among the beached dugout canoes. Lamen Bay was a bit of a hide out among the charter game fishers because of the “Paradise Sunset Resort”, a couple of weatherboard shacks where warm beer can be enjoyed in the setting sun.  The villagers were friendly speaking a mix of English and French.

We continued north to Epi Island anchoring in Banam Bay and heading to Narsup for a few provisions. Narsup was a poor anchorage with little shelter for the easterlies and hardly any provisions in the local shop - except for beer! We retreated to Vao Island, which is supposed to be the site for wood carving. After settling on a marginal anchorage we went ashore to meet the villagers, but was asked to cough up with 2500 Vatu (about $27) if we wish to take any photographs! However, there was not much to photograph and after a short visit to the school we rowed back to Aeolus in pouring rain and hard wind.

We had a fantastic crossing to Espiritu Santo in 15 to 20 knots SE wind keeping Aeolus on 7 knots with a reduced genoa and a trysail on the mast. We did not catch any fish since we left Port Vila, but have lost 3 lures with steel wire leads! The fish took the lure so hard that it was nearly impossible to drag it in and in no time the wire was chewed off. There are some monsters out there!

In rough seas we entered the harbor of Luganville with little shelter from the easterlies. With great effort we rowed the dinghy ashore (the outboard died for a while ago!) and went shopping for lures and food. Not many veggies in the market, but plenty of excellent meat and a good bakery. Returning the dinghy was an effort that had to be done in two steps.

After one night in rolly waves and strong winds the forecast of 20 to 30 knots wind made us retreat to the Aore Island Resort across the narrow sound and hooked up to one of their $15 a night moorings. The scene was set for a relaxing couple of days when nature took revenge!

After a nice evening meal in the resort restaurant we returned to Aeolus in darkness but with light from the resort. Aeolus was moored just one hundred meters from the dock. I was rowing (as usual!) with the ladies on each of the dinghy tubes. Suddenly we were hit on the starboard side with a huge force and a soaking splash of water nearly tilting the dinghy. Heather jumped for cover and with the two girls hanging on to the port tube we saw the starboard one deflate in seconds. During the flash of a second when we were hit and drenched in water I saw a black tail of something resembling a large shark. Under great stress I managed to row the dinghy back to the dock with the two girls hanging on to one tube holding up the deflated site to prevent the water from coming in. We got back to safety and just to face a 15 cm large hole in the dinghy tube! There were no volunteers for a swim back to Aeolus so the resort people generously ferried us and the dinghy back.

Becalmed in Port Vila

Leaving Fiji in sunshine with a 10 knot SE breeze was good, but did not last long. The trade wind caught up with us, and with 20 knots over the left shoulder we powered on getting Aeolus up to 8 knots with boiling water off the stern. With a reduced Genoa and a trysail in the main we settled down around 7 knots making the Monitor happy. During the crossing from Waya Island, Fiji to Vanuatu we made a record 150 Nm during one 24 hour period. We did the 543 Nm crossing in 4 days. Arriving early morning off Port Vila we stayed out to enter the bay at dawn. The chart plotter was inaccurate showing reefs where there was none and no reefs where there were many. Eventually we figured out the markers and found our way in to the yellow quarantine buoy off the main town.

Port Vila is a nice place, not large and busy with pangas crossing from the town to islands. We quickly got cleared by “bio security” that inspected the boat and we were asked to see Migration and Custom & Revenue (with “revenue” highlighted!) for visa and custom clearance. It took two days to locate the offices although it was a fairly simple process (no computers!!). We then found a nice anchorage off the island resort Tirikii with full view of the harbour and all its activities. Every morning we were visited by a family of two sea cows (Gdongs) with a calf quickly named Fred, Wilma & Pebbles!

The time ahead will be used for maintenance of the boat before taking a trip to the northern islands with our friend and new crew Heather from Port Lincoln.

Laying low in Luvoka

I am writing to you from my favourite table in Whalers Tale in Luvoka on the island of Ovalau, the eastern gate out of Fiji. It is hard to imagine that this desolated township once in its hay days in the mid nineteen century had more than 3000 Europeans living here. At that time there were 52 hotels in the town. Walking through the back allies I found houses from that time an onwards. The Royal Hotel from 1862 is still up running and so is the bowling club. Reading the history it is clear that Luvoka was a wild place, a watering hole for traders and whalers regularly raided by the inland tribes. One story goes that when a local chief died his followers erected 856 stones at his grave site demonstrating the number of corpses the chief had consumed in his life time! The Fijians believe that if they do not the soul of their victims will haunt them in the afterlife! Interesting diet! I can hardly imagine that the Europeans were sitting on their hands, but no one tells that story. Once Luvoka was the capital of Fiji, but when moved to Suva it lost its importance, but stories are still told at Whalers Tale!

We anchored off the township, the only yacht that has cleared out from here in a long time. I had to row out the Fijian migration and custom officers to inspect Aeolus. They were a friendly lot and the question is always “When are you coming back?”. We got our papers and headed for the island of Makongai anchorage to be met by friendly villagers. Once there the weather turned nasty and we went on to Koro Island in strong SE winds and heavy seas. In Koro we realised that our hope to reach Tonga via Wallis Island has faded. We should have done this trip in April and now the Trade wind season is on and new batteries and other repairs have kept us waiting. The wind went E increasing to 25 knots so reaching Wallis in heavy swells would be tough. No weather improvement was in sight. Facing Yadranka’s kitchen knife I realised that Plan B was activated. We will leave Fiji from the east coast and go to Vanuatu and New Caledonia.

Vuda Point Parties

Val the morning after

Vuda Point Parties

Back in the water! It’s amazing how that change the temperature in the boat for the better. Aeolus is now ready for a new season it is only to wait for the cyclone season to pass. In early April we should be able to go to Muscat Cove and then later on to Tonga possible via Wallis Island all depending on the wind. Meanwhile the time in the marina is for cruisers parties and to enjoy the company with other cruisers.

Cruisers Table

The Irish boat “Val” did not disappoint on Saint Patrick’s Day. At a previous party we were some twenty people on the boat and two people fell overboard! They were quickly picked up and looked refreshed. This time nobody went into the harbour partly because “Val” now has a rail! Nevertheless, we enjoyed the company of the owner Nick, Barbara and their crew Elaine and Eskild.

Birthday Song

Yadranka’s birthday was celebrated with fellow cruisers at the neighbour resort “First Landing”, which is a pleasant waterhole next door. The musical talent of the staff is impressive and they certainly lived up to their reputation with birthday songs and also a nice birthday cake. Yadranka showed great posture although earlier enduring a good birthday rub in the “Dream on Fiji Islands Spa”.

Yadranka and Chef Darren

The Birthday Cake

Meanwhile, for two days water has been bucketing down flooding the roads to Nandi and Lautoka. Not many veggies in sight!  Waiting out a cyclone season is no fun!

Boatyard Blues

Boatyard Blues

Sheltering under canvas to the tune “I’m so lonely in my saddle without my horse….” is the life while on the hard in Vuda Point Marina.  Lifting the boat out of the water for an easy replacement of a wobbly shaft revealed the new coat of antifouling paint covered with barnacles and tube worms!  Dumped in the corner I quickly passed the problem on to Baobab Marine. The paint supplier was called in and cornered by Brian the Baobab boss. Faced with the Aeolus Captain kicking his limps in serious tantrums, a solution was found. The boat had to be completely stripped of paint to the bare bottom, and layers of primer and fresh antifouling paint applied at no (little) cost for Aeolus. It took two Baobab boys five days to clean the bottom! Meanwhile the new shaft was installed with a few hick ups. Replacing an 1¹/₄ inch shaft with a metric one leaves a bit of a gap so a new flange and cutlass is needed. In the yachting business you learn as you go!

Meanwhile rain has been pouring down from the relentless beast (or the SPCZ) and the TC’s passing southwest of here. This has not been fun! The western division of Vitu Levu has been severely flooded, driving people out of their homes and washed roads and bridges out to sea. Supplies of veggies to the market in Lautoka is limited and prices are high – no tomatoes here just yet! But in between the sun shines. The Fijians are enduring, patient and friendly – nothing kicks them off their branch! So after long sweating working days the cruisers meet up for drinks Monday and dinner Thursday nights at the Yacht Club “Sunset Bar” (not to be confused with “Sunset Boulevard”!) or the happy “First Landing Resort” next door. A stubby will set you back two $! If the afternoon gets too sticky there is always the shade at the garden resort pool where you can watch honeymooners and wonder what they are up to?

One can sense that the cyclone season is about to come to an end. The migrating cruisers are slowly returning clearing their cockpits of cane toads and cockroaches. The rhythm of Boatyard Blues is replaced by Boatyard Queues!  When Cruising Captains and their crew share a beer with the fading sunset in their eyes thoughts and talks are not about the rags covering your ribs, but about the rags in the bags – it’s soon time to get them out and move on. “Red sails in the sunset – way out at sea carry my love one.., now stop this!