Bums Bay Burnout

I am writing to you from my favourite corner in the bar of Southport Yacht Club, just a few miles from our anchorage in “Bums Bay”. Yes, we got stuck here! The weather along the Australian east coast has been chocking with few protective anchorages. First we attempted to go south to Tasmania and then “home” to Port Lincoln. We got away too late in the season and decided to turn around and go north to enjoy Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef. So, back on the Gold Coast we again ran into Ruth and Neil on Ruthea. We thought that we would accompany Ruthea north, but things took a different turn. We are still here and Ruthea has probably left Darwin for the Indonesian Rally.  We have enjoyed many family visits including Ib and Danial in April. Birgitte, Mia and Tom have boarded Aeolus many times and helped us with transport and general mail.

But what has put an end to things was a routine check-up by the local GP in Jacob’s Well. A blood sample showed a raised PSA level indicating a risk of prostate cancer. The specialist gave the final diagnose after biopsy and sending me to various x-ray checks. Fortunately, the cancer seems to be localised so more waiting is expected before heading to Brisbane for an operation – life sucks! It is funny, that as a child doctors pay a lot of interest to one’s mouth, ears and eyes. As you grow old they seem to be more interested in the other end! Well, I am not alone. It seems that the queue of older males with prostate cancer seems long and nobody knows why! I have been lucky because it was discovered in an early stage. For now the breaks are on and Aeolus has been put up for sale. Check https://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/hans-christian-38t-1987/123619

Google view of Bums Bay, the Gold Coast

Rainbow over Southport, the Gold Coast

A front approaching Surfers Paradise

Sunset view from Bums Bay

Ib and Danial on the bow sprout off Gold Coast Seaways

Gitte and Mia enjoying the sun on Aeolus

Bound for Botany Bay, but....

Gold Coast Seaway

East Australian routes SV Aeolus

Mia takes control over Aeolus

Tom takes control over Aeolus

Granny and Mia

Mia at the helm

Birgitte, Dan and Tom enjoying Tweed River

Dan and Mia enjoying Tweed River

Coff's Harbour

Storm waves breaking over Coff's Harbour seawall

Cruising the Australian East Coast is not a dance on roses! Try keeping one in your mouth and it will be ripped out, and finding a sheltered anchorage is a cold partner. Sneaking through Broadwater to the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise was a challenge with a 6 feet draft. Arriving in Bums Bay on Boxing Day was even a harder challenge where the option was to waltz around speedboats and jet skis. We turned around and found shelter in Jacob’s Well fighting myriads of hungry sand flies, but better than a menu of aggressive jet skis!  Sheltering there for a few days we were ready for Bums Bay. During our voyage from Scarborough to Bums Bay we had family visits on and off. It was Birgitte and Dan with their two young children, Mia and Tom. It was a pleasant time. We also met up with fellow cruisers from Port Vila, Tania and Alan on their catamaran “Somwhere”.

Eventually, we left the sheltered shallow waters for the open ocean and negotiated the Gold Coast Seaway, riding the surfs and strong tidal currents. The plan was to head south to Tweed River. My charts showed that there was water enough and Google earth showed several larger size yachts for anchor. How they got in there I don’t know. The bar was outright dangerous and we took a roller coaster trip, just to find shallow water (at high tide!) inside. The bar to the anchorage was five feet! We got ourselves in sand three times. Eventually, we anchored at the fork of the river, where the tidal currents were a constant worry, but the anchor did hold. Again, we had a lovely visit by the Purkis family.

The weather was less pleasant throughout. We did find a window and headed for Clarence River, about 75 Nm south. The entrance to this river was wider, but sand was building up on the northern side allowing a southern entry. But well inside we found a pleasant anchorage just off the marina at Illuka. Here, we had another visit by the Purkis family over a weekend. Now it was time to good bye. As the weather improved we made a leap for Cox Harbor, 53 Nm south. The bar to the harbour is fairly easily negotiated provided that the surf is not up. Well inside, the marina is deeply embraced by high sea walls, but with a reasonable anchorage at the jetty. However, the swell is a constant companion. We decided to go into the marina, where we received a warm welcome.

The marina is a nice place. We met another P2P boat from the US.  It was Tenaya, a 40 ft Halberg-Rassy with Jim and Katie on board. Here we faced a furious gale pounding the north seawall sending cascades of water over the marina. The swell crept in working on the docks ripping out bolts and cleats. At one stage I thought that we were all in for an exciting rafting expedition. But it did hold up although bits and pieces were missing and a few docks were turned upside down. Jim took a video footage when the gale was strongest. Check http://youtu.be/ljjAN3752uc.

We sailed south to Port Stephens. This is a nice place. We found shelter in Salamander Bay and met up with Yadranka’s old friends Beth and Dennis. Here we changed our plans. It has become late to move south and to Port Lincoln. Finding a berth in Port Philip Bay seems impossible. So, we decided to head north again and spent the next cruising season exploring the Qld coast and the Great Barrier Reef.

Bundy to Brissy

Leaving behind the tentacles of the termite inspectors and with the final custom paper “Authority to Deal” safely in hand we set sails to go south. The pain of an empty valet was soon replaced with a better mood when the Great Sandy Strait appeared sheltered between Fraser Island and the mainland.  Sneaking around the many shallow sand bars was a bit challenging after being used to blue water! We eventually anchored at Sheridan Flat on the west coast of Fraser Island waving to Neil and Ruth on Ruthea. The sunset over the calm waters was magnificent.

Sheridan Flat/Fraser Island Sunset

Double Point Lighthouse

 Quickly off to the south entrance, we anchored in Pelican Bay among several well-known boats all waiting for a weather window to go further south.  Next morning we were off in a NE soft breeze negotiating the sandy spit and passing the Double Point Lighthouse. Then no wind, little wind and motoring by Noosa Head to enter Mooloolaba River just before sunset. We caught no fish!

At sunrise we left in light NE winds passing Caloundra Head and Bribie Island to enter Morton Bay and straight to Brisbane River. We caught no fish!

Minor traffic obstacles in the river

Brisbane CBD and the Botanical Garden moorings

The Story Bridge

 Brisbane River is an interesting experience. The river mouth is a busy place with rows of container ships, Roll-Off-Roll-On boxes and bulk carriers waiting to get in and out.  Passing the Rivergate Bridge, the local river traffic sets in. It’s a long way in before finally getting under the Story Bridge at Brisbane CBD. At sunset we anchored just upstream of the Botanical Garden in a marginal place. Although the Brisbane CBD is spectacular, the anchorage and the pole moorings are not! Next morning we decided to leave this experiment behind and found shelter in Scarborough Marina five miles north of the river mouth. It is time to see the family.

Wrap Up of a Pacific Passage

As a pistol used by the Kelly gang at the siege at Glenrowan, Victoria, in 1880, came under the hammer at a Melbourne auction we got out of jail! Getting ourselves and the boat through customs and quarantine in Bundaberg was not as bad as expected. The official Bundaberg team was a nice bunch of people and as soon as we understood the process, it was just a matter of patience.  Meeting the Port to Port people was also a nice experience and catching up with other cruisers from the Pacific passage quickly filled the day. It was only after some time on Australian soil reality caught up with us - or was it reality, hard to say! Marquesas and Tahiti seems a distant memory and this was only half the passage! Then followed Suvarow Reef in the Northern Cook Islands, Pago Pago in American Samoa, then beautiful Fiji where we were cruising the Yasawa Islands with Ib and spend a whole cyclone season in Vuda Point Marina. Then we were off to Vanuatu and Port Vila, cruising between the islands north to Peterson Bay with Heather. Then off to Huon and Chesterfield Reefs joining the Port to Port Rally straight into Bundaberg. Just before that our legs got shaky! Where do we want to go? Maybe a year in New Zealand or what about turning around and stay another season in Fiji – why the rush?

Memories of people, fellow cruisers and events along the way were many, some may say too many. Somewhere the tale has to end, because a new one will begin. This happened at the Tahiti – Moorea Rendezvous, this happen in Fiji, this happened in Port Vila, this happened in Bundaberg and many other places. Suddenly, it is time to say goodbye – it is all over!  What is left in our memories is not the hardship at sea, not the frustration over broken gear, not the time and money spent along the way. It is the adventure, the people and the friendship we shared along the way, it made us humble.

Daniels Bay, Marquesas

The Blue Lagoon, Manihi, Tomotos

Tahiti girls

Moorea Dance Group

Yadranka crossing Equator

Slipstream canoing, Papetee, Tahiti

Nothing ventured nothing gained!

Welcome to Australia

Bundaberg Blues

Melody: Heartbreak Hotel, distorted version.

I used to sail the oceans,

I used to sail the seas,

but now my boat is landlocked

for the custom fees -

My baby left me -

My baby left me -

My baby left me -

for the custom fees.

I joined the Port to Port race

on the wide open sea

hoped that this would get me

to the land of liberty -

My baby left me…

I left the port of Vila

in stormy southern seas

and headed for the Huon

and Chesterfield Reefs -

My baby left me…..

With Wreck Reef to starboard,

clearing Cato Reef 

I saw the Lady Elliot

and the evil Breakseas -

My baby left me….

Sailing up the river,

with rum on my mind,

I was towed to the jetty

For quarantine and fines -

My baby left me…..

So now my time has come,

I am left on my own,

the only comfort is Lady Elliot

and Bundaberg rum -

My baby left me….

Port to Port Rally or Reef, Rocking and Rolling

P2P Rally route

Sula sitting

I am writing to you from my favourite hang out in Bundaberg “The Sugar Cane Café”, a frinking and dishing establishment. Fait brought us here! We endured the worst passage of all from Chesterfield Reef to Bundaberg with raving winds and waves. The passage from Port Vila to Huon Reef and further to Chesterfield was a treat. Nice mellow trades and time for fishing, but we caught nothing and got a few hooks straighten out by unknown monsters. However, on approach to Chesterfield Reef fish were everywhere. We got an 8 kg Trevally! Nothing can beat fresh fish in the freezer!

Chesterfield Sunrise

Goodbye Chesterfield

Trevally Tandrum

Yadranka's Shells

Huon Holliday

The reefs were nice; it was time to relax with snorkelling and beach combing. Also time to socialise with other cruisers with the consequence that we ran out of booze! We spent time with Neil and Kathy on Attitude and Steve and Vicky on True Companions. On the spacious deck of their cat we were introduced to Mexican Train Domino – great fun! Watching the nesting birds on the islands was interesting. Even these remote reefs cannot escape the curse of humankind – floating garbage! There were many fresh turtle tracks indicating nesting activity. It was full moon!

Storm Approaching

We left Chesterfield Reef on a Saturday with the confidence of a load of grip files showing initial little SE winds and then freshen to about 16 knots for the next four days. Twenty four hours later we had fresh grip files and 25 knots winds gusting to 30 with six meters waves! It was like being in a washing machine – an industrial one! Fortunately, it was all out of SE so we raced on with boat speed up to 9.5 knots eventually settling to 7.5 knots with reduced Genoa and a trysail in the main. After 48 hours we were still in it easing to twenty, but expected to arrive in Bundaberg 12 hours earlier than we told the customs! Aeolus performed well, but the monitor was in constant need for adjustment. Water came over the cockpit so all navigating activity was from the hatch with small athletic excursions. Not much food – was once thinking about chewing on an old salty shoe!

Waiting in Villa

Port Vila Panorama

I am writing to you from our favourite water hole “The Waterfront Café” where we are enjoying a couple of Tasker beers on tap and an occasional Kava-colada, which makes your gums numb and your walks uncertain. In the Waterfront Café there is no shortage of cruisers and tales from the seven seas. There is also no shortage of yachts on anchor and in the inner bay the moorings are full with new arrivals and a few “wrecks” hanging on with a rotten rig and half eaten mooring robes. It is not for nothing that the locals refer to the inner bay as “the bowling alley”!

A Cruise Liner arrives in Port Vila

Veggi market in Port Vila

Harry and Yadranka at the Waterfront Cafe

Port Vila is a busy place with rattling busses and taxis racing back and forth spewing exhausts making breathing difficult. The outdoor tourist shops are full of people trying to sell you colourful garments and the crowded veggie market is a 24 hour business. In the local supermarket “Au Bon Marche” you get a touch of the French influence with excellent cuts of meat, cheeses and pate’s. There is no shortage of good wines and the language spoken is a truly mix up. The hustle and tassel gets even more exciting with the arrival of huge cruise ships with thousands of tourists. An arrival is usually announced on channel 16 early in the morning when the captain is calling “harbour control” a million times before somebody is awake enough to answer the call. In Port Vila there is not much space for these modern giants and interisland traders and visiting vessels are pushed out on the anchorage. At night the flashing light of the large TV screen on the upper deck shines through the coconut groves in harmony with the only other major light sources from the tall casino and the Reserve Bank of Vanuatu! People here do not pay income tax felt by cruisers when visiting the customs in the shade of the moored cruise liner. An otherwise inconspicuous building carries the sign “Customs & Revenue” with the word “revenue” highlighted!

Yadranka enjoying a Tasker on tap

Aeolus has spent a couple of months on a mooring in the far end of the bowling alley. We used the time to do varnish work and other maintenance. The genoa is a rag, but this has to wait. Otherwise Aeolus is in good shape. We have met a lot of “new” cruising friends and many “old” from Mexico, Marquesas and Tahiti. The mix of nationalities is pronounced and many come from Europe after crossing the Atlantic and the Pacific. We met Jan and Joanna on their boat “Joanna”. Jan is an expat Dane living most of his adult life in NZ. Joanna born in South Africa, but is now a Kivi with a keen interest in Mollusca taxonomy. Their cabin is full of mollusc identification literature and stacks of shells neatly sorted and packed in sealed plastic bags, an impressive collection! The couple has sailed around the world for eight years and are now on their last leg back to NZ! We are on the last leg (of the first section!) back to Australia via the P2P rally, a two week passage. In the horizon of the setting sun the customs and quarantine are waiting with their pockets wide open. A large welcome committee of sniffer dogs, yacht evaluators and termite inspectors are lining the dock. Maybe New Zealand or Antarctica is a better option?

Joanna and Jan